Mull Trip Episode 5; Treshnish Isles - Puffin paradise

Despite having made an annual pilgrimage to Mull since 2009, we've somehow managed to miss visiting the nearby Treshnish Isles; an important breeding colony for thousands of seabirds, particularly puffins. Yesterday, we finally rectified that omission, and with blazing sunshine & barely a breeze stirring, we could hardly have picked a nicer day to be out on a boat. The sea was as flat as a proverbial mill-pond, making the ride out to the rocky, uninhabited small isles very pleasant indeed. Although an overcast day might have been easier for photography than the strong sunlight, I'm certainly not going to complain, as it made for a fantastic day out. The waters were so blue & crystal clear, you;d have thought we were in the Mediterranean, rather than the West Coast of Scotland!

We sailed out from Ulva Ferry with Turus Maras on the Island Lass - which calls first at Staffa, for a look at Fingal's Cave & the famous columnar basalt geological formations; before sailing on to Lunga, the main bird sanctuary. As we drew closer to the Treshnish Isles, we passed large numbers of birds out on the water, including Puffins, Guillemots and even a Little Awk. 

Disembarking at Staffa, we made our way over to the far end of the island,for a little introductory Puffin action in preparation for the main event. There are a few Puffins nesting there, but mainly on overhanging cliffs, so although it was lovely to see them, it was tricky to get much in the way of decent shots - particularly as the surrounding vegetation was quite high!

However, this proved not to be reason to be despondent, since it became very clear that obliging & accessible Puffins were not in short supply almost from our first moments on Lunga! After a bit of a scramble up the boulder beach and a short, steep climb up to the main ledge, you are met by hundreds of very confiding Puffins, with the added bonus of neatly nibbled-short grasses sward, courtesy of their rabbit neighbours. 

Baby Rabbits - The Puffins also make their home in unused Rabbit burrows

An aside here on equipment; I get quite a few comments about why I use a 500mm lens in situations like this, when it's possible to get so close to the birds that a much smaller lens will do - and in fact, on Lunga, it's perfectly possible to get decent snaps of Puffins on your phone! There are a few reasons; firstly, for many shots, I prefer the blurred-out background that a large fixed prime lens gives. Secondly, it gives me the flexibility to go for shots of the more distant birds - especially the Guillemots & Razorbills on the main stacks, as well as flight shots. Finally and most importantly, it also means that, as I don't have to get so close, I'm not directly on top of the Puffins and their burrows, like so many people with their wide-angle lenses getting right over the entrances to get their shots. I did have a smaller lens with me, but it didn't come out of the bag!

Puffin calling

Razorbill

After a few warm-up Puffin shots, we hiked round to the main Guillemot colony on a craggy stack further back from the landing site. It was a bit of a puff up & down steep & narrow paths on such a hot day, but well worth it. The site, sounds - and smell!- of so many Guillemots, Razorbills and Kittiwakes all packed onto the ledges was quite unforgettable. I was pleased to spot a number of Bridled Guillemots (my secret target species) amongst the standard colour- morphs. The path also passed with about 15ft of a Shag nest, wedged in the shelter of a crevice between two boulders. Again, with the advantage of a larger lens, I was able to take a few shots without disturbing the adult bird. 

Bridled & Normal Guillemots

Shag Chick - Adult in forground

After spending a little while with the Guillemots, I headed back round to the main Puffin burrows, in search of the elusive, iconic 'beakful of sand-eels' shots. Despite the number of Puffins present, it was more challenging than you'd expect! I suspect this is largely down to the marauding Fulmars, which were patrolling along just a foot or so above the cliff top, ready to ambush returning Puffin parents & pirate their cargo. This meant that incoming Puffins first did a reconnaissance circuit of the cliff edge, before usually flying straight into the mouth of their burrow; with very few birds actually pausing on the open while carrying food. So, to be in with a chance of a sand eel shot, you do have to be observant, react fast - and have a bit of luck, too! Two hours on the island is just about enough, depending on what shots you have in mind, but 4 or more would be even better, I'm sure! I didn't quite get the pictures I had in mind, but then, that's wildlife photography for you.

Fulmar

After leaving Lunga, the skipper took us round some of the skerries, and Large & Small Carnaburgh - passing a number of Atlantic Grey Seals hauled out on the rocks - mainly juveniles. We also saw Shags, both Artic and Great Skuas - colloquially know locally as 'Bonxies'. It was really pleasant being out at sea on such a calm, clear day - we could see all the way to Skye in the North, and Jura & Coll were both clearly visible to the south. Coming back towards the North end of Gometra & Ulva, I even had a very distant view a pair of Dolphins, bow-surfing a small rib. All in all, a great way to spend a day, and well worth a visit.

Artic Skua

Great Skua

Atlantic Grey Seals

I mentioned in my last blog that we'd been visited by the local Tawny Owl. She seems to be a regular caller at the farmhouse, preferring to perch (and making slightly disturbing screeching noises) on the porch directly below our bedroom window in the small hours. I managed to get a rather blurred record shot of her last night - will try and get something a bit better before the end of our stay if I can! A barn owl was also spotted floating over the field next to the house last night, although I'm not holding out any hope of getting pictures of it, since neither species seem to be active until full dark up here, which at this time of year means 11.30pm onwards!

Tawny Owl